Ruca Malen

The past few days I been working at Ruca Malen. I wake up around seven, get ready for work, have breakfast then walk downtown to the main Plaza de Independencia to get picked up by nine. It is about a fifteen minute walk. The van, stopping at a few more locations to pick up other employee outside the central district also makes stops at the butcher shop to pick up the meat, then market, then heads out to the winery. We arrive around 10 and began prepping for the days lunches. We switch off on who preps what. I feel like I am falling in to somewhat of a routine.

The menu is prefixed and changes seasonally. I thought I would get tired of the same menu but with the language barrier it is bettter for me. Pablo is the head chef (above)and he speaks a tiny bit of english. He is very easy to work with. It is usually Pablo, Soledad, Martias and myself.

The menu begins with little rolls of carmalized onions that have been baked, served with a bit of fresh herbed cheese and a tiny bit of gremolata. This is paired with a Yauquen Chardonnay (07) to highlight the citrus and fruits in the wine.

Next are some roasted pumpkin croquettes that are served with a Malbec "jam" which is made from the malbec leaves that have been left behind in the tank. This sediment is mixed with a purre of prunes and onion and wild thyme to create this topping for the croquettes. It is really quite delicious.

The pumkin and the sediment are to bring out the fresh fruit and sweetness in the Malbec. (Yauquen Malbec) 07

The third course is a carrot and sun-dried tomato rissota. Served with a Merlot, this dish is garninshed with a fig pesto to enhance the wine's fruit and evolution.

The entre, of course is steak. After all this is Argentina. It is served with a sweet potato purree and a stir-fry style ratatouille. The sauce for the Bife de chorizo is made from potato, onions rosemary and a little cream. Very nice and not too rich. Interesting that they use potato to thicken the sauce.

After a busy weekend I feel like I am starting to get the swing of things.

Sunday, a chef named Sergio was there instead of Soledad. He was about my age. Just one year in culinary school and was very nice to work with. He really helped me with my Spanish. He would correct my pronuciation and when I would try to request something in Spanish he would correct me and have my repeat it. I really enjoyed working with him and the day went very smoothly. He only works two days a week, one of which I am off, so I won't work with him much.

I am pretty much responsible for plating the first two couses then the dessert. I do ok but when it gets really busy. I loose track of the orders. That's when I wish I understoood Spanish and could understand their system for the tickets.

Monday, Pablo was not there. It seemed that it was going to be just Soledad, Matias and myself. I was a bit uneasy about that. There were reservations for forty and the owner was there for a buisness lunch with some visitors from France. They were tasting the wines that had been stored in different barrels. Lucas showed up after about an hour and put me at ease (pictured right) It's nice when he is there.

There is definatley a different energy when he is in the kitchen.

I think I 'm getting a little quicker each day with the plating.

On my way home I met my neighbors who are American. They are a couple (the wife is back in the states with another son presently so I didn't meet her) who run a home for young boys who did not thrive in the mainstream American schools. The couple is from Idaho and they have five boys from different parts of the US that live in the home. Some are finishing up their education but the main focus is music. They invited me for dinner with them this week! The boys take turns cooking. I am excited to go and meet all of them and hear their stories.

I'm starting to have a social life..

Buenas noches,

In Mendoza

It has been a busy few days. Lucas picked me up from the posada and we went to to a nearby winery and self sustaining finca to cook a private lunch for a small group. Lucas was supposed to get me by 9 but because of some traffic issues leaving Mendoza he arrived at 11. We shopped and and had to really move to get the lunch out on time. It went well and I enjoyed the cooking with Lucas and the atmosphere of this finca.

Afterward we dove back to Mendoza where he dropped me off at the home of the Altus winery owner to stay for a few days while he figured out accomodations for me. The home was empty, the owners were out of the country and it seemed to me that they didn't use this house much. Their primary residence is in BA , so this is just a vacation home of sorts. It was a bit big and overwhelming. A definite change from the posada.

The next morning I walked a short distance to the main plaza and was picked up by Lucas to go to the Ruca Malen winery that is just a little distance out of town. We followed a van of workers that carpool to work. This winery is serving about 35-45 lunches a day which is quite a bit for this early season. The kitchen is small and rustic, as it was at La Tupina, but with much more action. The menu is a prefixed menu that goes along with the wine tasting and was very good. I began by jumping in and prepping onions, carrots and a small dice of eggplant and a round green squash ( cebollo, zanahoria, berenjena and zapolla) then worked with a darling young girl named Soledad plating the first three courses and the dessert. She was cheerful and helpful, I on the other hand, was a bit of a deer in the headlights.

A small kitchen, busy lunch and no dishwasher!

The time went quickly. This was an energetic and efficient group. No poker.

I returned home around 5 or so then made my self some dinner. This was the first time I really cooked for myself. I packed up again this morning and went in search of a new home.

I made contact with Dolores, a woman who has a travel business here in Mendoza (Tasting Mendoza) that works with Taylor-Made Tours, and she was so helpful in helping me find a a place and getting me settled.

I now truly have a friend in Mendoza.

Thank you Dolores!!!

I am settled in a great spot and will work again in the morning at Ruca Malen.

I spent the my evening walking the neighborhood and chatting it up with the other guests that are staying at this B & B. Interesting people.

The adventure continues....

Buenas noches,

Beth

Good-bye La Tupina

I walked to Altus this morning (7 Km). A quiet and lonely road. It took me about an hour. This was a small bodega that I passed on the way.


Erica met me at Altus and we headed out to the Andeluna Winery for a tour and lunch.
It was a beautiful winery built new in 2003, to look like an antique bodega. Mr. Lay (of Frito Lay) is the owner.
The restaurant just opened a few months ago and was wonderful.

Erica and I enjoyed the food and wine. Erica especially enjoyed checking out the competition. She had yet to eaten there.
Two to three hour lunches with wine pairings are exhausting!!
I wanted to just come home and take a nap.
I was pleased to have internet back up when I returned and was able to catch up a bit then I received a message from Guillermo that Lucas would be picking me up at 8 in the morning. I was to be packed and ready to go! Lucas was teaching a cooking a lunch around here for some people then he would bring me back to Mendoza with him.

I was just settling in here and feeling at home in this posada and at La Tupina!
I hope I get a chance to stop by and say goodbye to everyone.
It will be exciting to come back and see the posada finished.
Someday.

Goodbye La Tupina

Buenas noches

Spring in the Valle de Uco

I woke up to sunshine and this beautiful bird chirping outside my door. He sat there for most of the morning while I had my coffee. I have no idea what kind of a bird it was – but it was definitely singing about something or maybe just happy for a beautiful spring day. It feels a little odd to me that it is springtime again for me. This year I will pretty much miss fall altogether and experience two springs - one in the States and one here in Argentina .


Martin was nice enough to pick me up this morning. The crew seemed a bit tired this morning. I think most everyone had gone out the night before. Seeing how it was Saturday night. I know Federico did, they were teasing him about being hung over.
We had 12 lunches today. Martin had me plate quite a bit which was fun.
It was pretty uneventful. TGIG was in the air.
Martin brought me home and I spent the afternoon and evening studying my Spanish. My internet was down and I did get a bit lonely. No phone, no car, no TV, radio or internet.
Well this sunset was better than any of those things.

My first day off is tomorrow. Erica and I are going to go on a tour and have lunch at Andeluna Winery.

(Checking out the competition!)

Buenas noches

Festival de Tango los Camino del Vino

Lucas picked me up at eight-thirty this morning. I had my first solo last night because Emiliano had to go in to Mendoza.
There is a security guard who comes around on a moter cycle every now and then and he stopped by to check on me. We talked for a few minutes and didn’t understand a thing that each of us was saying but it was ok. I know he said something about” looking after, or looking around” and I said thank you and felt safe.
The kitchen was busy this morning. Three of us worked on assembling the sandwiches (about 300 of them) and a crew came in to ready the restaurant. Everyone was working.

Swarms of people arrived at the winery and the Tango show began. I was able to watch the whole show then helped serve the sandwiches to the masses. What took us hours to assemble was inhaled in 20 minutes. I then ran back across to La Tupina to try and help Martin with lunch. It was crazy. There was a trio of spreads for the breadsticks that everyone got, as well as empanadas. There was a choice of three principales.
Pastel de choclo con castra de queso fundido (a baked corn and meat pie)
Tradicional carbonada (a classic stew of meat, sweet potatoes, potatoes and corn cooked in cauldron over an open fire
Carne a la olla con papas asadas (Braised beef cooked in a caldron over an open fire.

There were two stations for cooking and plating the food. Paco plated carbonada and beef and Martin (and I) made the potatoes, empanadas, and baked the pastel de choclo con costra de queso fundido.
I was also to get the breadsticks (Lucas made these while we were assembling the sandwiches) ready and the three different little spreads platted.
An herbed cream cheese mixture, the eggplant pate that I made yesterday and an avocado spread that Paco made. Lunch is intense because it happens all at once and I felt at times just in the way. I found my niche a few times then got in the swing of things during dessert.
We finished around five o’clock. I was exhausted. Emiliano brought me home (he helped out all day too) and then took off again for Mendoza for the weekend. I am here alone again and definitely getting a dose of solitude here at the posada.
No complaints.

Buenas Noches.
Beth

Working at La Tupunia

Thursday was spent making empanadas for the party on Saturday. Micaela and I made about two hundred of them. We rolled the dough out with a pasta machine then cut and rolled. It was fun. With music, singing and laughter and practicing our language skills on each other – I think we bonded. We finished around two o’clock then played poker with beans until four. There are certain things that you do not need language for. Math is one and poker is another.

Today (Friday) was another story. Lucas came for the day and all of sudden the kitchen got serious. He came to teach a class to a couple that was visiting from Indiana. I helped Martin mise en place for Lucas. A word we both understand! I helped Martin quite a lot today and even plated a couple of tapas. When the class ended, the couple had a full course lunch.
After serving lunch to the guests, we spent until six in the evening getting ready for tomorrows party. It is interesting how now matter what language you speak, when you understand the menu and quantity of what you need to prepare, you just know what to do.
I prepped for carbonada, a traditional Argentinean stew. I made the eggplant pate which we will serve as an appetizer. We also made little rolls that we will make sandwiches with for snacks at the winery event.
It was really quite a busy day. I was tired as was everyone.
One thing that I am really coming to enjoy is the Matte. A type of herbal tea.
About every half hour, someone makes a little cup and brings it to you with a metal straw. You stop and drink the whole thing then more hot water is added and it is passed on to the next person.
It’s only been three days and I really feel like I am part of the kitchen.
Tomorrow is a big day. Lucas told me that I will be in charge of tapas and deserts.
I helped Martin with the flan while Paco made the bread pudding.
From three lunches to 40. This will be interesting.
Buenas noches,
Beth

My First Day of Work

I had underestimated how hard it was going to be to say goodbye to Eric. He dropped me off at La Tupina on his way back to Mendoza to catch his flight for home. I posed for this shot before I went in and felt like one of my kids getting their picture taken in front of their class on the first day of school.
We were greeted by Erica, the hostess of the Bistro. She spoke English very well and introduced us to the staff.
Eric nosed around for a little bit taking some pictures - then the moment of truth.

I walked him out to the car and tried to fight back the tears that were welling up. (Now I really felt like a kid on their first day at school!) We made it short and sweet, he told me to be brave and that two months will fly by.

Everyone was great. They were young, fun and curious about why I was here.
Paco runs the kitchen. (last picture) Martin is the chef under him. Micaela is a prep chef (pictured left with Martin) and Adriana keeps the kitchen clean. Last but not least is Federico, the handsome waiter.
The bistro is very small with a rustic efficient kitchen that has a separate area to teach classes and cook in an open hearth. It is still the off season so they have very few visitors. On this first day we served only three lunches. It’s kind of crazy all this staff for one party, but that’s how it works here. It will get busy in the next month or so.
I was amazed at what wonderful food a small rustic kitchen can put out. Many of the items were pre-prepped already for the week and just had to be assembled. I will get to be a part of that in the days to come.
I felt very comfortable and Micaela was great at keeping me busy.
There is to be a large event at the Winery on Saturday (Sabado) so we made all the dough and prepped the filling for empanadas today. There will be around 150 people at the event with 50 people staying for lunch, so even though there are few reservations today and tomorrow, there is much to do.
Lunch here is not the 12:00 -1:00pm quick bite that is in the states.
It is a leisurely event.
The three people who came today arrived at 1:00 and stayed until almost 4:00.

They were served about six or seven different tapas (I lost track) while they sat outside and enjoyed the sunshine and wine. The few I saw and watched being plated and served were two types of crostini, one with melted cheese, and one with roasted eggplant pate, pork croquettes, squash and parmesan custard that were baked and served in the shell.
Then they came inside and had a plated first coursewhich was a vegetarian egg crepe lasagna, then the main course of a “la tupina” (caldron of beef cooked over an open fire) served with roasted potatoes. I’m not sure what the desert was - some type of cake in syrup served with two different sorbets, one a strawberry and malbec wine flavor and the other a pear and thyme.
Quite a feast.


The day went by quickly. Emiliano picked me up and brought me back to the posada.
He will be my driver for the next couple of weeks. He was a mountain guide who used to take people on tours up to the Aconcagua and is now a care taker of the Altus finca (estate), which is about 10,000 acres. The owner is an oil baron that comes around every so often.
When I get in Emiliano’s car to drive back to the posada it is reminiscent of the Indiana Jones ride at Disneyland. I told him that and he smiled and went even faster.

Buenas noches,
Beth

Heading to the Valle de Uco

I made contact with Guillermo, and he set up a meeting for chef Lucas and myself to meet and talk over the arrangements of my stay. I had only met them once before so I sat nervously in the hotel lobby scrutinizing every person who came through the door. I recognized them both immediately and we sat down over coffee to talk about what and where I was going to be. Let me tell you that these two were so nice and gracious and accondomdating that I was immediately set to ease. The more we talked and I learned about the restaurants that they have and what they were doing the more excited I became. My Posada


Mendoza is to Argentina as Napa is to California. With a growing wine industry that attracts visitors who want good food, Lucas and Guillermo have created liaisons with some of the wineries in the area to accommodate a dining experience to be included with the tastings.


(My first visit to a Mendoza winery was to winery called Ruca Malen. Our group had a five course lunch, each course paired to enhance one of their wines. Lucas was the executive chef here. )
He explained to me that he works out of various bodegas that all differ in style and food and that he would like to give me an experience of all of them. He would start me at one of the smaller restaurants and then have me finish my time in a restaurant he was opening in Mendoza City. I was pinching myself to make sure I was wasn't dreaming. He gave us instructions to the first place I was to go, and that was that. I had his his number if I was to need anything and that someone was there that knew I was coming. It was a posada still under construction in the Valle de Uco 7 km up the road from the restaurant I that would be working at. This restaurant is called La Tupina and resides outside of Tupungato and is part of the Altus Winery. I had actually eaten here on my last visit so I new what to expect.

So I thought.

After a visit to the Achaval -Ferrer (unbeleivable wines) we finally navigatied our way to the Altus Winery. Finding the posasda was a different story. Thank goodness Lucas found us on the road (dirt) and we followed him in. He had come looking for us because we were so late in arriving.
My Grandparents had retired in Midas, Nevada, which is about 60 mile (40 of them dirt) east of Winnemucca and literally in the middle of anywhere. Over the years, I have travelled that Midas road many times and now, eventhough dormant vineyards surround me on both sides and the Andes loom in front of me, as drive out this dirt road with the dust and gravel, the ramshackle houses, and poplar lines roads I am comforted by familiarity.
The farther we drove the more nervous we began to feel. This was out here a ways. We were not sure what to expect as we strained to get a glimpse of some distant building, in hopes it would be our desstination.

We finally arrived at the posada. (first picture) It was beautiful. Quaint and rustic this 100 year old building was still a project in the works. Four of the rooms were finished but still much work needed to be done before it's opening in October.
Lucas showed us around, gave us some keys to the main lodge, and told us to call Emilio the care taker, if we needed anything. Emilio lived in the owners house up the road a bit.
Then he left.

We unloaded the car. then decided that we best get back into town for dinner and supplies before it got dark. Eric wanted to make sure he could find it again! On the way back into town Eric talked about trying to stay for a few more days. he was a bi tnervous about how remote it was and that I would have no transportation. I was praying he would stay.

We had a nice dinner in town, navigated back no problema then slept like babies.

Everything always feels better in the morning and this was the case. What better greeting than the Andes? We went grocery shopping then visited a nearby winery and had lunch, making the most of our last day together. Eric spent the evening packing to go back home and I readied myself for my first day of work.



We both knew it was going to be okay. At least that's what we told each other.

Besos,
Beth

Bethina425 is Back: Abroad in Argentina!

Bethina425 is back. No longer in school any more, and back to eating duck (which I thought I would never do after my final) I'm in Argentina!

Si’ mi amigos.

After a fast and busy summer vacation, I’ve packed up my knives and I am heading to an area outside of Mendoza where I will spend the next couple months cooking under the guidance of Chef Lucas Bustos.

I have 260 hours of apprenticeship hours that I need to complete to satisfy PCI’s graduations requirements and hopefully this is where I will do this. I say hopefully because I am still en route.

Why Argentina?? Well, why not I asked myself one night. (One of those sleepless nights I used to have during school stressed over finals and wondering what I was going to do for my externship).

I had accompanied my friend Virginia (Taylor Made Tours) on an exploratory trip to Argentina last November just a few months before starting school. After spending a week in Buenos Aires, we headed to Mendoza where we spent our time visiting wineries, taking cooking classes and of course eating. The area is beautiful and the wines and food were wonderful. While there we had a cooking class given outdoors at the Melipal winery by Chef Lucas. Everything about that day was perfect -the weather, the setting, the food,. the wine. Chef Lucas had a few restaurants in the area and we ate at two of them while there.

Fast forward to the end of school. It was time for me to get serious about getting into a working kitchen.

I had so many ideas come and go as to what I might do. I knew I wanted a cultural experience. I knew I wanted to spend time in a restaurant, but I wasn’t sure where.. It came to me one night after Virginia asked me if I wanted to go back to Argentina and help her with an upcoming tour she had booked. I said I couldn’t because I planned to hopefully be working at that time to complete my hours That night it came to me. Argentina. Why not?

I called her the next day and asked what she thought about my asking Chef Lucas if I could come out and work for him? I think Virginia was more excited than I was. It could be a perfect plan. I would go a few months before her. Work full time and complete my hours then join her for her tour. She emailed her contacts in Mendoza and before I could talk myself out of it I wrote a letter to Chef Lucas asking him if I could come.

The response came back from his manager Guillermo.

We would love for you to complete your hours in our new restaurant. He said the timing was perfect and that would have lodging for me on the premises.

Now here I sit in a hotel room in Mendoza writing this...What have I gotten myself into? I don’t even speak the language. My friend gave me Rocket Spanish but I’ve only done the first lesson.

My husband, the trooper that he his, is with me. Actually, he is getting me a coffee as I write. After supporting me through the ups and downs of culinary school he is graciously escorting me to this new adventure. We spent a few days in BA arriving just yesterday in Mendoza. This morning we head out to the Valle De Uco, where I
will see what I’ve gotten my self into.

Wish me luck

Buenos Dias,